It is generally true to say that for the average British person the sum knowledge of Hamburg boils down to three facts:
1. A pre-moptop Beatles were a leather-clad jobbing rock band in the city’s clubs of the early sixties.
2. A prime Kevin Keegan once bestrode the playing fields of SV Hamburg like a bubble-permed footballing God.
3. The city contains a notorious red-light district around the Reeperbahn area much beloved of randy sailors and shifty gentlemen in raincoats.
Armed with this knowledge my expectations were tempered as I made my way to spend a weekend in Germany’s second city. What I discovered was a vibrant, welcoming metropolis replete with UNESCO listed buildings, bustling bars and a thriving sub-culture.
After checking in at the grandiose yet charming Hotel Reichshof my first port of call was to the central Christmas Market at Rathausmarkt. There are 16 Christmas Markets within the city perimeters, of which this is the largest. The market boasts 90 stalls selling hand-crafted goods from around Germany and has been thoughtfully designed by Circus Roncalli supremo Bernhard Paul. Features include a 1932 carousel, 200,000 fairy lights and a spectacular portico entrance reflecting Hamburg’s reputation as the “Gateway to the World”.
At 4pm the crowd were treated to a personal appearance from Father Christmas himself, who skilfully piloted his sleigh from one end of the market to the other, high above the heads of the onlookers. Saint Nick then performed a neat reversing manoeuvre, hovered in front of the central Rathaus (Town Hall) tower and recited a protracted monologue in a voice akin to a German Barry White.
I bade farewell to the garrulous Santa and made my way to the White Magic Christmas Market. It is appealingly situated on the boulevard of Jungfernsteig on the southern bank of Binnenalster, one of the two Alster lakes (actually tributaries of the River Elbe) that form such an attractive focal point of the city. Boat trips are available from the market and children will love the play areas and activities aboard 5 docked “Fairytale ships”.
My final Christmas Market of the day was one with a distinct point of difference. The Santa Pauli Market on the aforementioned Reeperbahn plays host to a more mature crowd. Live bands entertain the patrons from the Show Stage whilst the popular “Strip-Tent” features performances of a more unconventional nature. During my visit (purely for research purposes obviously) the entertainment consisted of “Porno Karaoke” hosted by two lofty drag queens.
Mind summarily blown I made my way around the side-streets that surround the Reeperbahn. Avoiding the obvious tourist traps and side-stepping the polite advances of a bewildering array of prostitutes I was delighted to discover a multitude of independent bars in which I could sample the local brew, Astra Pilsener.
Upon returning to my hotel I sojourned to the stylish 1910 bar for a nightcap and asked the barman to choose me a fine dry white wine. His selection of Reisling from the Mosel valley region was exquisite. Unfortunately, it was also €20 a glass, which I found a little steep, particularly as I had just been offered three in a bed sex for €60. Upon picking myself from the floor I consoled myself in the knowledge that the wine was the longer-lasting of the two options and settled back into a comfy leather tub-chair.
The following morning I wandered around the Schanzenviertel and Karolinevietel districts and found streets filled with independent stores, coffee shops and boutiques. Graffiti art is encouraged in these colourful areas and on the street of Schulterblatt (shoulder-blade!) I discover another aspect of the tolerant and welcoming nature of the city’s people. A former theatre, Rote Flora (Red Flower) has been operating as a squat for over 25 years despite attempts to revert it to its original purpose and is currently accommodating refugees from Syria in addition to its more permanent residents. The squat is now considered a cultural centre and holds exhibitions, parties and events.
After a stroll through the Flohschanze flea market, where retailers were offering antiques, retro goods, books and dog-eared James Last LPs I moved on to a more mainstream shopping experience in and around the Neustadt area. Designer outlets and pretty walkways flank canals and avenues.
The Speicherstadt district stands as a symbol of the importance of trade and industry that has made the port city of Hamburg into the richest in Germany. A 26 hectare warehouse complex that once bustled with merchants and seamen is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and in addition to trade outlets also contains conversions to hotels and museums, such as the International Maritime Museum.
For my last evening in this enthralling city I returned to the bars of St. Pauli, stopping off at both the Star Club and the Indra Club on Groβe Freiheit, which are famed for their role in the early development of a little-known beat combo called the Beatles. Where the street meets the Reeperbahn stands a sculpture displaying the unmistakeable profiles of the Fab Four. Presumably the Kevin Keegan monument remains a work in progress.
Where to Stay
Reichshof Hamburg, Curio Collection by Hilton
Kirchenallee 34-36, 20099 Hamburg
An ideal location adjacent to Hauptbanhof Central Station means you can be out of the airport and into your hotel room within half an hour. Beautifully redeveloped but retaining its elegant historic facade and art-deco interior styling this branch of the Hilton Empire has charm in abundance. The renowned Restaurant Slowman prepares contemporary classics and a visit to the 1910 bar is like a trip back in time to a more graceful era.
Superbude Hotel Hostel St. Pauli
Juliusstraße 1–7, 22769 Hamburg
This quirky hotel-hostel in the bohemian Sternschanze district of St. Pauli attracts a largely young and cool crowd. Free Wi-Fi and free use of iMac computers is offered and the colourful lobby contains a stylish dining area with 24hr drinks fridge.
Where To Eat
Freudenhaus St.Pauli
Hein-Hoyer-Strasse 7-9, 20359 Hamburg St. Pauli
“German cooking like mum used to make” promises the blurb. Well my mum is Scottish and struggles to boil a haggis but you get the general idea. Unpretentious, hearty home-style cuisine with meat, fish or vegetarian main course options washed down with an extensive selection of German wines.
EAST Restaurant
Simon-von-Utrecht-Strasse 31, Hamburg 20359
This chic Eurasian restaurant is housed within the impressive East complex in what was formerly an old iron works and now features a design hotel, spa and a variety of trendy bars and lounges all surrounding a tranquil courtyard. Choose between contemporary European gastronomy and selections from the sashimi and sushi bar.
Where to drink
Altes Madchen
Lagerstraße 28b, 20357 Hamburg
Adjoining the Ratsherrn brewery and craft beer shop in a redeveloped former slaughterhouse, Altes Madchen “Old Girl” is a brew-house and restaurant guaranteed to titillate the tastebuds of the craft beer aficionado. Delicious burgers, snacks or evening meals can be accompanied by a selection of over 60 craft beers from around the world. For something a little closer to home try the tasting tray of Ratsherrn ales.
The Chug Club
Taubenstr. 13, 20359 Hamburg
Having opened its doors for the first time in September 2015 this funky bar is a stone’s throw from the Reeperbahn but a world away from the standard tourist-oriented Kiez fare and is already proving a huge hit with the Hamburg in-crowd. Talented mixologists specialise in preparing “chugs” – quality cocktails in small measures, meaning you can just go ahead and try more of them.
Where to go
Chocoversum by Hachez
Meßberg 1, 20095 Hamburg
With an entrance in the excellently named Pumpen street this museum is a magnet for chocoholics of all ages. Guided tours demonstrate the origins, history and production processes of chocolate and there is an opportunity to create your own bars using a variety of fillings and toppings.
Kaffeemuseum Burg
Annenufer 2, 20457 Hamburg
Who doesn’t like a nice cup of coffee? Well, me as it happens but even I couldn’t fail to be won over by this newly opened attraction in the atmospheric Speicherstadt district. This spacious and appealing coffee shop is complemented by a museum in the basement area with over 8,800 exhibits assembled over many years by proprietor Jens Burg. Guided tours and coffee tasting are available.
Miniatur Wonderland
Kehrwieder 2, Block D, 20457 Hamburg
This exhibition aims to demonstrate that miniature railways aren’t just for bespectacled middle-aged men with no social life and capacious attics and it succeeds with aplomb. Set over an area of 1,300 square metres and containing 930 trains and over 215,000 figures this is a model like no other and is still expanding. Initial funding for the project proved hard to come by as potential investors believed that no-one would want to pay good money to look at a model railway. 15 years later and Miniatur Wonderland now attracts over 1.2 million visitors per year making it one of the city’s leading attractions.
Top tip
A Hamburg Card can be purchased for periods of 1-5 days and provides free transport by bus, ferry and train (including to the airport) and discounts on over 150 further attractions including museums, theatres and restaurants. Cards can be booked online at www.hamburg-travel.com
Getting There
Flights to Hamburg from the UK are plentiful and can be inexpensive.
Direct flights from Birmingham are operated by Eurowings.
Easyjet operates flights from London Luton and Manchester from under £30 each way.
The S-Bahn runs direct from the airport to Hauptbanhof Central Station in around 25 minutes for under €4.
Words: Tom McDougall
