Athens: A city of contrasts where old and new collide
In the shadow of the skeletal, yet imposing remains of the Acropolis, the city of Athens unfurls its charms. This impressive summit takes in the intriguing blend of ancient grandeur and neoclassical elegance that makes up this stunningly beautiful, urban metropolis.
You may be forgiven for assuming there is only antiquated culture in Athens. After all, it is famed for intriguing mythology, impressive ruins and flamboyant Baroque design. But there is a lot more to it than its disparate history. Over the past decade, it has transformed into a creative hub where artists, designers, and architects seamlessly merge the past with the present. From cutting-edge galleries to design-forward hotels like New Hotel, the city offers an immersive experience for travellers.
Athens is not a city to sit on its laurels (pardon the pun), and its design ethos constantly evolves. Following the landmark ‘documenta 14’ exhibition in 2017, it has established itself as a global centre for galleries, and independent art spaces have flourished. Beyond the galleries, Athens is an open-air museum of contemporary expression – Plato’s Academy is a unique government-backed project designed to revitalise a once downtrodden area, whilst the neighbourhoods of Psyrri and Exarchia have injected new life into old walls – with notable muralists, WD (Wild Drawing), INO and Sonke representing the beating heart of the city.
Alternatively, you can visit exciting work from emerging artists at The Breeder, cutting-edge Sylvia Kouvali and Bernier/Eliades, which all offer avant-garde displays for public consumption. Even traditional institutions have been redesigned to reflect and reshape the city’s identity. The National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST) is housed in a repurposed brewery, and you could easily spend a day soaking up the curated collection of modern Greek installations, which consist of digital media and experimental work that challenge and contradict traditional means of expression.
Elsewhere, the privately funded Onassis Stegi & Neon Foundation supports contemporary artists by commissioning bold new work that engages with urban space. My personal favourite is the uber modern Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) – which houses the humongous public library and National Opera – plus has a rooftop garden and access to the beach. This eco-conscious masterpiece blends minimalist design with sustainability and hosts evolving exhibitions, cultural events and performances in a peaceful suburban setting – a lifetime away from the bustle of the centre.
To make the most of the metropolis, I stayed in The New Hotel, a living installation of the past and future. Situated in the heart of Athens near Syntagma Square and the Plaka district, it is a reincarnation of the Olympic Palace Hotel, which crowned the area for decades. Owned by art collector Dakis Joannou, who also founded the DESTE Foundation for Contemporary Art in 1982, he knows a thing or two about contemporary artists (counting Jeff Koons as a close friend). Yet rather than simply use the hotel as a platform to display art, the rebirth of the hotel was designed with sustainability in mind. Joannou called upon two Brazilian architects, Humberto and Fernando Campana, who are famed for their upcycling, to create his vision. They got stuck in and, with the help of twenty local architecture undergraduates, began to transform the property by meticulously salvaging elements from the old hotel.
The Lobby Restaurant boasts decorative ‘trees’, which on closer inspection are parts of tables, chairs and wooden remains, whilst lamps have been upcycled, picture frames have been given a new lease of life, and leather, once gracing the old Chesterfields has been completely reinvented to create a type of acorn drapery in reception. Downstairs, the gym is filled with art to inspire your workout, and the retro ‘Dirty Phone Call’ phone booth in the basement is something that has to be experienced!
The landings are decorated in Ugandan bark wallpaper made from the Moraceae tree, and the chic Art Lounge with roof terrace on the 7th floor not only boasts panoramic views of the Acropolis hill from its wraparound patio, but it is also a meeting place for trendy Athenians who flock here for Sunday brunch.
Whilst the accommodation boasts minimalist decor such as shattered glass effect tables, designer wooden lamps and floor-to-ceiling windows, all three room categories are inspired by traditional Greek themes. Mine paid homage to Karagiozis – the mischievous folklore shadow puppets who illuminated my bedroom walls, whilst others boasted ancient Greek postcards and the Evil Eye- perfectly fusing past and future.
After my early spring visit, which took in pottery making, street sculpture, ancient ruins and futuristic art, I am already planning my return but this time to devote at least an afternoon to meandering around the flea markets.
Factbox:
I stayed at the New Hotel. Rooms start from £235 for 2 people sharing on a B&B basis.
Fly direct with AEGEAN AIR, which also offers access to the swish Aegean Air Lounge – book here.
Catch some opera or soak up the tranquillity at the SNFCC Complex.
Book a Street Art Tour to see Athens up and coming talent.
Words by: Sara Darling












